Organizing from the start

The only patterns I have intentions to sew are the ones that are included in the Burda WOF magazine, at least right now. I know the time will come when I'll venture away from the safety of "free" patterns (I mean really, the cost is so low for half a year subscription). Right now though I'll start my sewing career organized.

The five or so patterns I have purchased in the past are bunched together in a large envelope, which is perfectly fine. But for these Burda tracings, I needed a system.

The very simple system I came up with in inexpensive and time effective. I tape three sheets of computer paper together around three sides, but only half way up one of the long sides. This makes two openings for two patterns, back to back. Then I write the company, month, style number, size, difficulty rating and draw a rough picture on the front. Simple, fast and I have the pattern for many more projects. They sit well on my bookshelf next to my sewing machine.

I am in the middle of trying to marathon trace eight of the patterns I think I will make in the next year. So far I two, but haven't added the seam allowance or cut them out. I think this tracing at once will save time and motivation depletion in the long run. The materials are out all at once and usually two patterns are on the same lettered pattern sheet. Also, if the pattern is ready, the momentum can just roll right from inspiration to sewing a garment- once the fabric is treated. (Which is another one of my projects: when I buy fabric I immediately set to washing, ironing, and hanging the fabric. Saves with soo much repeated work.) We'll see, but I feel like this whole sewing thing is coming together nicely.

Finishing seams

The hour or so I allotted to sewing today has gone to finishing seam edges. I don't want my pants to fray to the seam after a few wearings so I know something needs to be done. I just have always thought that zigzagging seams are the standard method- another step in the process.

But, reading through Amanda's blog has inspired me to try a different type of seam finish throughout the whole garment. The blouse she finished with a french seam looks very clean on the inside. Even if it takes longer during construction it will definitely save thread, and there is no way it would take as long as zigzagging each cut-out. Or I'll find out. Either way, the finished product will look so much nicer, even if the only person to know the difference is me.

Perhaps on my next project, which I believe will be the Burda 09-2009 blouse 105 in plum Egyptian cotton, will have a French seam.

Pants are mostly constructed

I seem to be on a bit of a roll. These projects are coming together. I have sewn the pants 09-2009 Burda 128, mostly. I have to hem, sew the facing and finish the edges. After that, a second wearable article of clothing.

These pants are two circles, up from the one and half designation of the skirt. I do see how they were more difficult. I was unsure how to sew the inner leg together in relation to the center back and center front seam. Ultimately I made the wrong choice and sewed the inner leg first, leaving the messy intersection in plain view. Oh well, you can't tell. Or that is what I will tell myself for the time being.

This project did take less time than the skirt though because I did not check the pattern description before, during and after every small step. Also, the pants do not require a lining.

Pictures after all is complete.

Picture of Wool Skirt

I am happy with this skirt, although the design is not ideal for flattering the figure. A very good skirt to wear casually at dinner or to the museum. I did have a few technical problems like mismatched thread (about five shades too light) and messy finishing in spots, but overall I am satisfied.

I sewed the zipper by hand because I had never sewed a zipper before. It didn't take much time and I was sure to keep it in the right place. Then I went ahead and pulled the rest of the seam allowance to the front for an invisible zipper. It was surprisingly easy, and I do just love to hand sew. Something about it.



I did what the manuals suggested for the dart and continued a few stitches after the fabric. I guess this just ensures a tight finish without the puckering.

Even though the instructions did not specify hooks and eyes, I finished it with one. I have to say that it has a nicer fit because of it, too. The two sides are now exactly continuous when I wear it while before there was slight gap where the zipper couldn't reach.

I have already cut the fabric to my next project: September Burda WOF trousers 128 sz 17. We'll see how the petite fit.

The bottom cord design and side zippers at legs will be eliminated; I want a simple pair of pants. I don't know if the tight look is right, or whether the brown trouser fabric I chose will be too thin to wear in the cooler months. It is worth checking out.

Finished My First Wearable Piece

I have basically finished my first skirt from Burda WOF September issue. I will post pictures once I do the last step- hem the lining. The purse is coming along fine, a bit simple in design and execution, but something with a zipper to keep my personables from spilling on the floor. Pictures will not be taken today, it is unbelievable raining and dim in this apartment. Plus just one more day and they both will be completed.

Back On Track

Alright, so I have come up with a pattern for knit gloves that work, altered one of my husband's old yet unworn sweaters for myself, and decided to end the dress construction. I am coming up with a manageable to-do list that includes all the necessary reading about techniques.

This is the muslin for the gloves- an old cut-up sweater- it works! I tried it out on interfacing first to get the right dimensions, then I used the interfacing as the pattern for this glove. I learned that when hand sewing knit, I should pull the thread tight to avoid the stitch from showing through onto the other side.


These next few photos are from the botched dresses. They all show how my bad craftsmanship in the beginning has led me to abandoning them. Now I know that precision is key when matching seams, and, that really, I should take my time.



Onto the TO-DO:

First, I want to sew a handbag. This is just a simple, straight lined construction with interfacing, lining and a zipper. I will read and understand the zipper construction before I start sewing, but I have all the fabric already and am ready to start.

Then, even though I found two warm mittens and pair of black leather gloves, I will still make a pair of knit gloves. I plan to buy two yards online from one of these fabric stores today. So I don't know when in the list I will get to sew this.

In the meantime, every pattern that I trace from Burda or any other place I am storing in its own folder with a line drawing and any other reference information- i.e. Company, size. All these little folders I'll store in a large accordion folder.

A definite second, I plan to trace the skirt pattern from Burda Sept issue 126- without the belt buckle. Perhaps tonight.

Third, I want to trace a simple store bought shirt onto tracing paper and attempt to sew it. The shirt has been worn with so many outfits; I really want to a second one. I found fabric that is open mesh like the original but this new fabric is not as sturdy of a mesh- actually it is a weave instead of a no- stretch knit. The original shirt has a neck that is big enough to pull over the head and comes to the hip bones. I'll try it out on my muslin first before I use the new fabric, just to see if it will fit. Research for this: sewing delicate fabrics. I don't think I'll be able to sew this new fabric on my machine...

Change of Plans

Sadly, I seem to have hit a wall in my sewing, already. I will put the blouse pattern away considering the fit is all off and also because it is of poor quality. I can tell without the sleeves set in or buttons sewn on that in no way could this blouse be salvaged. At first I was going to finish sewing the blouse to gain experience sewing the pleats on the sleeves, setting the sleeves in to the shirt, and hand sewing the button holes and buttons. I am just discouraged because I put so many hours into learning the basic ideas behind sewing techniques, planning the project and then sewing the pieces together; I want something of value to be proud of. I know I should just get over this, but my wardrobe is lacking in necessities and I would like to fill the gap, soon. I guess I could put the blouse project away and pick it up after a successful shirt is sewn.

The second set back, and one that sent me back to the planning room in terms of current projects, is the handbag. I ended up studying the pictures of the bag on the website and attempting to make a pattern that would have the same appearance in the fabric I would choose. I decided to choose sturdy- enough fabric and interface it so that it would at least be as thick and resistant as leather. But the pattern I came up with, done and redone many times on tissue paper, did not measure up. I realize I have to get to the point where I am confident I will be able to trouble shoot my way out of a pattern problem. Right now though I have yet to make a quality piece using commercial patterns!

I will post pictures once we get our new camera

Sum up of sewn clothing so far (I have sewn curtains, pillows, tote bags, but all simple straight lines with no real challenge):

-knit knee length dress with short sleeves- one sleeve is sewn in the wrong direction (not particularly noticeable because they are super short sleeves)

-knit swim suit cover up- I would have had to rip out basting done on the neck facing due to the facing showing on the right side of the garment, and, frankly, because I was ready to start on a new wardrobe from the Burda catalog.

-Current Burda blouse with alterations and off cross grain cutting- I trimmed about 2 inches off the hem of the front of the blouse, thinking I made a drafting mistake when in actuality it was necessary. Another mistake I made was not transferring all the pattern markings onto the fabric- time consuming to check.

Perhaps I will bring the summer cover-up out of the closet and finish it properly, at least for next years summer season. Just to feel like I am back on track.

As it stands, I have some wool shrinking in the other room to make a Burda skirt- a one and half circle, "beginner" skirt. It is supposed to be lined and has a zipper, but I am determined to make progress: improve my skills as well as my self-esteem as a sewer.

Here is my list of near future sewing projects:

-finish Vogue knit dress

-make pattern of fall gloves and sew using interfacing as muslin (hand sewing this, I have a bit more confidence that this will turn out because I have tried this two other times, without researching patterns or fabric, and came real close to having a wearable pair).

-Burda 09/09 #126 wool skirt

Last night I decided to finally join Pattern Review, so perhaps I could review these. I figure these will take me a while, and although I won't have a much needed fall casual shirt to wear, I will feel more able to sew one soon.