Jenny G.

Pants: Finished

2009-11-30T14:25:00.003-05:00

My tight pants have been finished for a month now, and I haven't written about or taken a photo of them. Life has taken over, and I do actually plan to make this blogging more thought provoking for myself in the future. I plan to note skills learned by being descriptive and have at least one photo to show of the process!

I actually would like to enter into the deeper, some would say trivial, matters regarding fashion. Why do we care about fashion trends? How does this affect our mood or outlook? Has age affected many people's wardrobes? What about the addition of children? Is there a difference other than clothing quality between slapdash sewing vs. couture?

I would like to cover these issues, which I am not at all sure about. I write this as a reminder to myself while eventually I would like to get other people's opinions as well. (My blog is not up to a standard where anyone reads it- which is okay by me. But I know that changes must be made if I were to attempt a dialogue.

So I avoid another picture of my pants. It is really laziness! eek

Organizing from the start

2009-10-28T19:12:00.004-04:00

The only patterns I have intentions to sew are the ones that are included in the Burda WOF magazine, at least right now. I know the time will come when I'll venture away from the safety of "free" patterns (I mean really, the cost is so low for half a year subscription). Right now though I'll start my sewing career organized.

The five or so patterns I have purchased in the past are bunched together in a large envelope, which is perfectly fine. But for these Burda tracings, I needed a system.

The very simple system I came up with in inexpensive and time effective. I tape three sheets of computer paper together around three sides, but only half way up one of the long sides. This makes two openings for two patterns, back to back. Then I write the company, month, style number, size, difficulty rating and draw a rough picture on the front. Simple, fast and I have the pattern for many more projects. They sit well on my bookshelf next to my sewing machine.

I am in the middle of trying to marathon trace eight of the patterns I think I will make in the next year. So far I two, but haven't added the seam allowance or cut them out. I think this tracing at once will save time and motivation depletion in the long run. The materials are out all at once and usually two patterns are on the same lettered pattern sheet. Also, if the pattern is ready, the momentum can just roll right from inspiration to sewing a garment- once the fabric is treated. (Which is another one of my projects: when I buy fabric I immediately set to washing, ironing, and hanging the fabric. Saves with soo much repeated work.) We'll see, but I feel like this whole sewing thing is coming together nicely.

Finishing seams

2009-10-27T19:35:00.003-04:00

The hour or so I allotted to sewing today has gone to finishing seam edges. I don't want my pants to fray to the seam after a few wearings so I know something needs to be done. I just have always thought that zigzagging seams are the standard method- another step in the process.

But, reading through Amanda's blog has inspired me to try a different type of seam finish throughout the whole garment. The blouse she finished with a french seam looks very clean on the inside. Even if it takes longer during construction it will definitely save thread, and there is no way it would take as long as zigzagging each cut-out. Or I'll find out. Either way, the finished product will look so much nicer, even if the only person to know the difference is me.

Perhaps on my next project, which I believe will be the Burda 09-2009 blouse 105 in plum Egyptian cotton, will have a French seam.

Pants are mostly constructed

2009-10-26T19:23:00.003-04:00

I seem to be on a bit of a roll. These projects are coming together. I have sewn the pants 09-2009 Burda 128, mostly. I have to hem, sew the facing and finish the edges. After that, a second wearable article of clothing.

These pants are two circles, up from the one and half designation of the skirt. I do see how they were more difficult. I was unsure how to sew the inner leg together in relation to the center back and center front seam. Ultimately I made the wrong choice and sewed the inner leg first, leaving the messy intersection in plain view. Oh well, you can't tell. Or that is what I will tell myself for the time being.

This project did take less time than the skirt though because I did not check the pattern description before, during and after every small step. Also, the pants do not require a lining.

Pictures after all is complete.

Picture of Wool Skirt

2009-10-23T14:46:00.008-04:00

I am happy with this skirt, although the design is not ideal for flattering the figure. A very good skirt to wear casually at dinner or to the museum. I did have a few technical problems like mismatched thread (about five shades too light) and messy finishing in spots, but overall I am satisfied.

I sewed the zipper by hand because I had never sewed a zipper before. It didn't take much time and I was sure to keep it in the right place. Then I went ahead and pulled the rest of the seam allowance to the front for an invisible zipper. It was surprisingly easy, and I do just love to hand sew. Something about it.

I did what the manuals suggested for the dart and continued a few stitches after the fabric. I guess this just ensures a tight finish without the puckering.

Even though the instructions did not specify hooks and eyes, I finished it with one. I have to say that it has a nicer fit because of it, too. The two sides are now exactly continuous when I wear it while before there was slight gap where the zipper couldn't reach.

I have already cut the fabric to my next project: September Burda WOF trousers 128 sz 17. We'll see how the petite fit.

The bottom cord design and side zippers at legs will be eliminated; I want a simple pair of pants. I don't know if the tight look is right, or whether the brown trouser fabric I chose will be too thin to wear in the cooler months. It is worth checking out.

Finished My First Wearable Piece

2009-10-18T15:17:00.003-04:00

I have basically finished my first skirt from Burda WOF September issue. I will post pictures once I do the last step- hem the lining. The purse is coming along fine, a bit simple in design and execution, but something with a zipper to keep my personables from spilling on the floor. Pictures will not be taken today, it is unbelievable raining and dim in this apartment. Plus just one more day and they both will be completed.

Back On Track

2009-09-20T14:04:00.003-04:00

Alright, so I have come up with a pattern for knit gloves that work, altered one of my husband's old yet unworn sweaters for myself, and decided to end the dress construction. I am coming up with a manageable to-do list that includes all the necessary reading about techniques.

This is the muslin for the gloves- an old cut-up sweater- it works! I tried it out on interfacing first to get the right dimensions, then I used the interfacing as the pattern for this glove. I learned that when hand sewing knit, I should pull the thread tight to avoid the stitch from showing through onto the other side.

These next few photos are from the botched dresses. They all show how my bad craftsmanship in the beginning has led me to abandoning them. Now I know that precision is key when matching seams, and, that really, I should take my time.

Onto the TO-DO:

First, I want to sew a handbag. This is just a simple, straight lined construction with interfacing, lining and a zipper. I will read and understand the zipper construction before I start sewing, but I have all the fabric already and am ready to start.

Then, even though I found two warm mittens and pair of black leather gloves, I will still make a pair of knit gloves. I plan to buy two yards online from one of these fabric stores today. So I don't know when in the list I will get to sew this.

In the meantime, every pattern that I trace from Burda or any other place I am storing in its own folder with a line drawing and any other reference information- i.e. Company, size. All these little folders I'll store in a large accordion folder.

A definite second, I plan to trace the skirt pattern from Burda Sept issue 126- without the belt buckle. Perhaps tonight.

Third, I want to trace a simple store bought shirt onto tracing paper and attempt to sew it. The shirt has been worn with so many outfits; I really want to a second one. I found fabric that is open mesh like the original but this new fabric is not as sturdy of a mesh- actually it is a weave instead of a no- stretch knit. The original shirt has a neck that is big enough to pull over the head and comes to the hip bones. I'll try it out on my muslin first before I use the new fabric, just to see if it will fit. Research for this: sewing delicate fabrics. I don't think I'll be able to sew this new fabric on my machine...

Change of Plans

2009-09-08T13:57:00.003-04:00

Sadly, I seem to have hit a wall in my sewing, already. I will put the blouse pattern away considering the fit is all off and also because it is of poor quality. I can tell without the sleeves set in or buttons sewn on that in no way could this blouse be salvaged. At first I was going to finish sewing the blouse to gain experience sewing the pleats on the sleeves, setting the sleeves in to the shirt, and hand sewing the button holes and buttons. I am just discouraged because I put so many hours into learning the basic ideas behind sewing techniques, planning the project and then sewing the pieces together; I want something of value to be proud of. I know I should just get over this, but my wardrobe is lacking in necessities and I would like to fill the gap, soon. I guess I could put the blouse project away and pick it up after a successful shirt is sewn.

The second set back, and one that sent me back to the planning room in terms of current projects, is the handbag. I ended up studying the pictures of the bag on the website and attempting to make a pattern that would have the same appearance in the fabric I would choose. I decided to choose sturdy- enough fabric and interface it so that it would at least be as thick and resistant as leather. But the pattern I came up with, done and redone many times on tissue paper, did not measure up. I realize I have to get to the point where I am confident I will be able to trouble shoot my way out of a pattern problem. Right now though I have yet to make a quality piece using commercial patterns!

I will post pictures once we get our new camera

Sum up of sewn clothing so far (I have sewn curtains, pillows, tote bags, but all simple straight lines with no real challenge):

-knit knee length dress with short sleeves- one sleeve is sewn in the wrong direction (not particularly noticeable because they are super short sleeves)

-knit swim suit cover up- I would have had to rip out basting done on the neck facing due to the facing showing on the right side of the garment, and, frankly, because I was ready to start on a new wardrobe from the Burda catalog.

-Current Burda blouse with alterations and off cross grain cutting- I trimmed about 2 inches off the hem of the front of the blouse, thinking I made a drafting mistake when in actuality it was necessary. Another mistake I made was not transferring all the pattern markings onto the fabric- time consuming to check.

Perhaps I will bring the summer cover-up out of the closet and finish it properly, at least for next years summer season. Just to feel like I am back on track.

As it stands, I have some wool shrinking in the other room to make a Burda skirt- a one and half circle, "beginner" skirt. It is supposed to be lined and has a zipper, but I am determined to make progress: improve my skills as well as my self-esteem as a sewer.

Here is my list of near future sewing projects:

-finish Vogue knit dress

-make pattern of fall gloves and sew using interfacing as muslin (hand sewing this, I have a bit more confidence that this will turn out because I have tried this two other times, without researching patterns or fabric, and came real close to having a wearable pair).

-Burda 09/09 #126 wool skirt

Last night I decided to finally join Pattern Review, so perhaps I could review these. I figure these will take me a while, and although I won't have a much needed fall casual shirt to wear, I will feel more able to sew one soon.

Finishing touches

2009-09-04T17:32:00.004-04:00

I'm onto the last two steps of my make-shift blouse with 'short-sleeves' and no tie. I deviated from the proper pattern in my first Burda sewing adventure because of bad planning with fabric. I knew it would not be worn much if the blouse was sewn correctly, one, and two, I need to practice my skills at the machine and drafting table.

But I had a few important discoveries the past few days. While machine sewing, one should always sew in the direction of the grain to avoid bunching. It's called Directional Stitching. Makes sense. Never knew that, thanks Vogue Sewing, the manual I am using as one of my teachers right now. Another great insight, also gained through this book, is to avoid back stitching on the machine when beginning and ending a seam. I'm ashamed not to be able to chalk that one up as my own realization. I can't imagine how many projects have ruffled unintentionally by doing just that. One can just tie the ends together!

I won't have any pics until we order our new camera, since I broke ours with the second Great Spil.

I am inspired to sew the button holes by hand. I recently read Adventures in the Art of Sewing and found myself shrugging my shoulders when she jokingly wrote "snob" next to her response that button holes should be done by hand. For myself I say, Hey, when you don't know any better... Plus, I have a feeling, sure, it will take more time, but it will turn out better- how could hand-worked thread not be sewn with more precision than the machine- and also will actually be less nerve racking. I know I would hold my breath as the machine jammed eating my tissue paper- thin fabric trying to navigate the buttonhole function.

An after thought: I know nothing about my sewing machine, or sewing machines in general. I think the machine might be something to take note of while reading through the blogs, my one source of many teachers, and also the manuals and books from the library.

Getting into the active spirit

2009-09-02T13:56:00.002-04:00

I've been doing more and actively thinking more about fabric and how it can interestingly affect my world. (I can't seem to bring myself to say 'fashion world'. I guess I like to think of this whole sewing activity as part of a lifestyle that is rich in creativity and perseverance. The word 'Fashion' in a sense doesn't induce the same picture in my mind. I guess in my narrow frame of reference I picture wealthy women and teens going to upscale shopping malls to buy the latest trend, although I'm sure that is just the cultural interpretation a south Jersey native could have of the phrase 'fashion world'.)

I ordered some interfacing and a whole roll of tracing paper (sew-in feather/mid-weight Interfacing 20"X30yds-white, Fusible Tridimentional Interfacing 22"X25yrds, and Bienfang 24"X50yrds Sketching and Tracing paper roll) from Amazon because shopping for it is terrible. I just don't know where all the sewers shop for their notions around Boston. Does everyone go to the horrifically understaffed Joanne Fabrics with their shelves half empty? I can't believe that people don't have hobbies around here, but there seem to be an obvious lack of the independently owned craft and fabric supply store. (I've been to Freddy Farkle in Watertown, which has a large variety of upholstery fabrics and very small quantity of notions, and a shop in Arlington that mainly carries quilting fabrics, notions department surprisingly large.)

I'm waiting for the interfacing to start on the purse but today I will start the first steps of the blouse. All of the pattern pieces are cut, with a few alterations due to inaccurate estimating. The dress is of proportion but the sleeves on the blouse are going to short. I'm keeping the pleats though, so we'll see if they even work. I'm not too worried about the final appearance, I wasn't in love with the blouse design and I could always sew another one. I figure the first of the sewing projects is the test round anyway.

I know the tracing and cutting of the fabric was a test round. Next time I bet tracing the pattern onto tracing paper and then cutting it out will be much faster and easier, mainly just from practice. Towards the end of the four hour (cumulative) session it took to do these two preliminary steps, I felt a pro. I'm sure the next time tracing will take half the time due to a comfortable rhythm acquired toward the end of the second pattern piece. Also, using weights to hold the pattern and fabric on the floor is so much faster and produces much less back ache than the table. I can't wait until all of this is just a step in the process of creating something desired instead of a physically torturous and occasionally confusing task.

Soon, someday at least, I will be able to make some of these awesome clothes I see displayed on upscale department stores. (Maybe I feel hesitant using fashion world because I am a little too much like those women shopping at the malls. I just don't have the money!)

Like these from displayed on Saks website:

Brunello Cucinelli:Long-Sleeve Cowlneck Tee

Minnie Rose:Cashmere Ruffle Duster

Diane von Furstenberg:Boatneck Top

Donna Karan:Pegged Melange Jersey Straight Skirt

Akris Punto:Wool/Angora Car Coat

Brunello Cucinelli:Long-Sleeve Cowlneck Tee

Record some hits from Bloomingdales

2009-09-01T14:52:00.003-04:00

Just curious what is out there so hitting up the fall Bloomindales online.

Awesome, never would have taken a soft shade of denim and made a feminine skirt. Good thinking Marc Jacobs.

I like the princess seam short length black dress with nipped waist; even the little frills from the neck to the chest looks nice. Always, pockets on dresses are nice. Leifsdottir Ponte Knit Dress

This is a cute look, the baggy knit sweater vest with fitted pants and tight shirt.
Vince Cashmere Sweater Vest, Denim Scrunched Ankle Leggings and Long Sleeve Tee

New Handbag

2009-09-01T14:01:00.002-04:00

I've decided to make myself a decent handbag. The totes I've been using for the past year have gotten me into too much trouble- just yesterday I ruined the camera with spilt milk. The Internet did not lead me to any interesting free patterns for handbags and I've decided to draft my own. I really am in a crunch for time, I don't need to check out every style, so I've stopped my search at one that is just pleasing.

I am searching the Bloomingdale's website under the 'long should bags' heading and I stop at a Hobo bag! I can't believe that is a style name, but it seems to fit with my tote sensibilities right now. Maybe it will be a good transition onto more adult and feminine-looking accessory trend.

It is made of leather, the first main difference between my bag and the original Furla Adriana. I will interface some material I have in my stash, although I'm sure it won't be shiny. I think I will keep it very simple and not mix fabrics on the bag.

There are four pattern pieces- body (x2), bottom/side (x1), strap (x1), and top (x2). Two metal rings will be used at the point where the side meets the strap and, in the center, there will be a zipper. I haven't decided whether to line it yet. There is one pleat in the center of the body piece and it really doesn't look like it will sewn down far at all; it seems to give a little room to the interior of the bag and some visual decoration. I like how simple the design is.

I'm only making one strap and I won't use a shiny metal plate to pronounce 'HANDMADE'. I'm just hoping it won't be obvious (I can't wait until I make professional- looking things!).

Onto the next stage

2009-08-30T16:43:00.005-04:00

Like I said before, I've been doing some research and one sewing blog that I read mentioned some time saving steps when sewing. She will pick a color theme and do more than one project at a time so that she doesn't have to change the bobbin thread after one project is finished. She'll plan her projects and group the steps together to illuminate the set-up and clean-up time for each, hence all the tracing, cutting, sewing is done at the same time for each of the steps.

I have traced my two patterns onto tissue paper, the dress and blouse, and look forward to pinning and cutting either today or tomorrow. I want to avoid burnout so I am living in the moment, and appropriately I came across this wonderful quote from a book in a magazine:

"what if we were to recognize value... in terms of enjoyment rather than productive work? What if doing and thinking were both different extensions of the same motive force of eagerness? If meaning were redefined by 'feelings of exited significance'... [and] sensory experience and pleasure [were] an index of pragmatic truth?"

Read an Inspiring Schedule

2009-08-29T14:22:00.006-04:00

I have the fabric, not all the notions, but plenty of patterns to try to tackle. For some reason, being a stay at home mom should in theory allow me the time to sew, at least 2 hours a day. I think this is my new goal. My son takes a two hour nap, soon to be changing to one and half, so altho it is doubtful I could keep my very well behaved two year interested in helping me sew for very long while he is awake, I could very easily sew while he is down, for nap and while at night. I could never go without reading, so I think I will need to set aside a good hour and a half for reading at some point, but I could make the two hour devotion a habit. So I'm trying this two hour a day schedule out for two weeks to see if I like it. I know hard work in needed and frustrations will follow, but I never want sewing to be chore.

My skill level is still low, but with each time I use the machine I understand the stitch use more. I finally can create the proper tension! I now iron my fabric before and during construction. I can now visualize pattern pieces fitting together, but some of the details of the individual steps allude me still. I am proud of where I am considering less than five years ago I thought machines took fabric, cut them on a conveyor belt, assembled and sewed them. Not until I stumbled upon the couture concept of 100% hand-made clothing did I get interested in constructing clothing. One day I will be able to look at clothing and come up with a pattern of my own based on the pattern knowledge I'll accumulate, once the time is set aside to actually create.

I don't have any tissue paper, but I'm determined to transfer and cut the first of the fabric from the burda September issue, blouse 118 TONIGHT. Two circles means "easy to sew, but more time consuming" by burda authors, so the blouse should prove a challenge for a starter like me. Although with only five pattern pieces I'm not too intimidated. Had to sew buttons at some point.

The fabric is of a wonderful Indonesian design, as the Newtonian yard- seller told me a year ago. The background is not beige, but it is definitely off white, a bit grayish, which flatters the brighter scarlet and cobalt and the neutral green and tan of the shapes. The design is not trendy, at least not the kind that is fashion today- large funky, almost hipster, designs that accent angular shapes. The oversimplified designs of organic objects. Not interested in going anywhere near that, it is just overdone. Surprisingly though this design does bypass the sixties and seventies, so I really lucked out. No paisley or obviously drawn flowers. Just the predominant black vines and leaves that lead to bursts of color. Absolutely stunning. The fabric is a bit see-through; I'll just have to wear something underneath.

Bought more fabric

2009-08-28T19:29:00.004-04:00

My first Burda World of Fashion catalog arrived in the mail a week ago. I read that the patterns came stapled to the center of the magazine and I knew that I would have the photos, diagrams and pattern layouts to look at up close, but I wasn't expecting the number of great opportunities. This is the beginning of the fall issue, but many of the patterns could be used in any season with a switch to a more vibrant color or thicker fabric. I was so excited that I went shopping for fabric and notions, which to avoid a terrible list of complaints, I hate doing here in the Boston area.
I have been reading blogs, watching instructional videos on youtube- some helpful, and re-reading my 1970's copy of Vogue Sewing. I took my body measurements. I keep looking at my boyfriend with a goofy smile saying how excited I am.
But I definitely know where that can lead so I've decided to set manageable goals. I think one pattern a month is a sustainable habit-forming, technique-building schedule. I'm kind of sad that I decided this after going fabric and notion shopping because I have enough fabric for five of the patterns in the September issue. The next issue is coming out at the end of September and I'm sure there will be patterns there that will make me obsessed. Oh well, maybe all will go well and I can be a bit more ambitious than one a month.
Also, I would like to keep up with the writing about sewing, either about specific technical issues I'm having, thoughts about the fashion world or my personal style, something I've been reading or watching relating to sewing- anything. Just keeping on the active end of creation in organization, production and planning. At least once a week, deadline on Friday seems, again, pretty manageable.

(I only included the photo image of the piece if I liked the look on the model.)

These are a few of the easy-ish patterns I thought I'd complete this month while on the shopping high. In reality I want to make the dress (which for some reason I didn't find online in the magazine but is plainly #124 in the magazine in print form), the shirt (both dress and shirt made with the same thin, decorative material bought last year at a yard sale for a dollar), the button up dress shirt (in a plum/lavenderish solid colored Egyptian cotton bought earlier this year at a fabric store in Natick), form-fitting high waisted pants (with a thin wool/polyester mix with a bit of spandex in brown fabric), and three quarter length jacket (wool/polyester biking red and beige hounds tooth suiting with biking red silksence lining). To be honest I want to make them all.

Been sewing some non-eventful stuff.

2009-08-18T14:17:00.002-04:00

At least I think it's not worth posting. I am just learning to read patterns and have yet to receive my first Burda WOF catalog in the mail. I completed one knit dress from a Vogue pattern, which is sewn wrong in a few places and am unsure if I can actually wear it public, and I am almost done the second knit dress, a pattern taken from the same vogue envelope that I am using as a beach cover-up. I guess I'll post a pic of them done on a hanger.

Dress Pattern Search Results

2009-03-13T13:10:00.018-04:00

I looked over all for dresses in just about all the pattern sites and found just a handful of interesting patterns. It is surprising that the pattern companies don't have more variety in the form of dress patterns. Most of the patterns were either shapeless, as in the gathering of fabric at the neckline with no curve towards the body (a somewhat younger look), or long, simple ensembles to be worn over a turtle neck (middle school Mrs. Deerlove style).

Now, I'm new to this, perhaps I am overlooking the potential of a given pattern. We'll see with time. But I was surprised I could actually narrow my search on the initial gathering.

The above Vogue knit dress pattern V8513 looks more like a date dress than a day dress, but maybe with the right fabric it would look nice without being too formal during the day. The shoes make a huge difference.

The basic design of the dress is nice and simple and classy: high back, hem below knee, waist tie and frilly skirt. I think I like all the options for sleeves as well.

V8489 is one of the only dress patterns I saw where the waist curves higher in the front and lower in the back. That is flattering to the figure and while I'm not a huge fan of v-necks I would sew this pattern to see the effect. The hem is a little longer, at mid calf, which also moves this pattern toward a more formal style than day ware, but again, maybe with the right knit...

Now this is definitely one I will sew. I love everything about this McCall M5577 jumper- comfortable-looking, cute, a bit silly- and an undisputed daytime dress.

Here is a McCall M5804 (somewhat younger-looking) dress that looks an awful lot like the dress I like from Apologique. I actually like this design more because here the skirt flares while the boutique dress is tight fitting. A nicer look for evening, but I'm a good year away from dates at night.

The hem is higher on the leg which is actually nicer in the hotter, less breezy weather of summer.

Above is the velvet dress from Apoologique that is somewhat like the Hillary Duff pattern.

Absolutely loved this Burda 7783 dress when Threads Magazine mentioned it in an issue from half a year ago. The wide yoke neck is a interesting touch and pockets in a dress is just wonderful, especially ones right at the hip.

This Burda blouse 7821 attracted me to this pattern, but I think the dress would make for a nice beach cover-up or simple comfortable day dress. The skirt is short enough that shorts tights might look okay under them.

Online Dresses

2009-03-12T13:38:00.008-04:00

Shopping online for clothing has never suited me well, rightfully so. The model's body is not my own and, like most women, I shift between two sizes-and petite clothing- depending on the brand. These online stores are very helpful for me, the outdated fashionata. (After two years of childrearing I am finally looking at the jeans and simple black sweater I wear daily and wonder what happened to that Jenny-style.)

I decided to stay focused with day dresses to find a common theme of dress that attracts my sensibility.

This pleated crepe tank dress is from White House/ Black Market. I like how the neckline curves out at the sides and is level just above the cleavage. I like the modest yet flirty cuts- they are always flattering. Not a huge fan of skirts/dresses that cut just level to the knee, but the hem of this dress seems to have a bit of a flare. Perhaps that would cancel the chunky calve and ankle effect.

I am definitely a fan of form fitting dresses, although I'm sure with this dress I went past the simple day dress design I was looking for.

Ann Taylor has a few day dresses that are nice. This Pleated skirt sweater dress has scoop neck with wide shoulder drop leading to short sleeves. Love this cut- comfortable to wear with the simple elegance that is always present when showing neck and collarbone (not a very feminine bone, altho better than saying clavicle, as in The English Patient.)

It has a higher hem cut and defined waist at waistline- also a flattering cut to my figure. The pleats make for ease of movement and ease of motion to the skirt.

Here is another from Ann Taylor. Basically what I like from this pleated knit dress is that it looks extremely comfortable and very sexy. The lower, triangular cut with the pleats that converge toward the natural waistline give the effect of form fitted shirt with comfortable bottoms. Always a classy look. Actually loving the puffy sleeves at the wrist-adds to the casual look of the skirt.

Ann Taylor again has a beautiful casual design. This simple cut (excluding the bust which is actually a complicated twist) carries over well in the box design on the fabric. This looks hard to sew, but I like the hemline, silhouette, neckline and tiny sleeves. The perfect day dress for lunch and a walk.

Ordering first dress online

2009-03-09T13:00:00.006-04:00

"Enchantingly feminine summer dress, blouse and top! This season’s decorative detail is the small tucks on the round neck as well as the high-waisted Empire Line.
Recommended fabric: Cotton fabrics, linen, crêpe fabrics"
I found a spring dress that is easy to sew and calls for easy to sew, inexpensive fabrics. The pattern should be here in about a week so I have to start fabric shopping. Making a few versions of this dress with different types of fabrics will give me the practice I need, so I'm planning to pick up a cotton print, to wear as a casual dress, and some sort of crepe, for a swimsuit cover-up.

Constructing two of the same patterns allows me to correct the problems that I'm sure I'll make when sewing the first one. The hard part is deciding which fabric to sew first.

Wrong Dress Size

2009-03-04T12:27:00.004-05:00

Oh well, I bought the wrong size again! I don't know what goes through my mind when I look at the pattern but for some reason the "B" on the front is always overlooked.
Now I am just going to shop online for patterns. It'll be easier to make sure I get what I want and this will cut down on impulse buying.
I've been reading the different pattern sites around and the blogs of people who make clothing.
My focus needs to be narrowed I realize. I need to see what is out there in the way of fashion and compare what I like to what flatters my body. This project is different from walking into a store, trying on clothes and taking a chance that with a few wares the pants will be molded to my hips. Or just shrug that perhaps a knit shirt will look good on me.
Whenever an article of clothing or accessory catches my eye while searching on the internet, I want to note it in here with a little picture. That way hopefully I'll be able to choose patterns that have a similar look. I saw one girl's blog includes pics of designer clothes on her body taken from inside a dressing room at Bloomingdale's. I doubt I'll go as far as that. I would take a pic of it on the hanger, jk. maybe
If I'm going to spend the time and money attempting to make quality clothing, I want to be sure I choose the right projects from the get-go.

My first project is to find a simple dress to sew. Starting out simple- from the beginning because all of this is so new- I'm searching fashion net for dresses that look nice. From someone who has never followed high fashion the number of designers in New York alone to be shifted through is a bit daunting. This website organizes the designers by city and gives a brief synopsis of the look, then a link to their website. Pretty cool.

Easy Knit dress

2009-02-20T07:12:00.003-05:00

I bought this knit fabric to go along with this easy dress pattern to jump start my pattern sewing. Sadly with wedding planning for my sister and Christmas crazyness my mom and I had to put the shirt sewing on hold. Now back in Massachusetts I am going to go it alone, for now.

Patchwork Quilt

2008-12-12T22:53:00.003-05:00

Scrap fabric usually takes up a drawer of my craft supplies so I decided to make a patchwork quilt with it. The quilt is not big enough to be used as a blanket, it is about 24" x 26", so it might look nice as a wall hanging. It is not that visually pleasing in the design and I'm not too sure that quilting with the light rose colored thread I have will add much to the effect, especially from farther than five feet, but we'll see. Maybe if the quilt still looks kind of dull after the whole surface is covered with the leaf/vine design, I'll add some colored accents to highlight the quilting.

Sewing Inspiration

2008-11-21T23:53:00.005-05:00

So, I grew up with stories randomly told to me by mom- after much pressing and with little detailed return- about her days of sewing. She would say she had sewn bathing suits, blouses, shirts and even a suit for a high school boyfriend. Then the tale would turn with one of her shrugs and raised eyebrows: the price of patterns and fabric became more expensive than ready made clothing. So she stopped sewing. Every time I tried to press further into the depths of her interest- why not just make some clothing every now and then? were the ready made clothing better than her personalized version, if so how? did she begin sewing just to put clothes on her back? I realized she originally had a hobby that interested her, but, due to mastering the craft of the commercial pattern and the lack of internal drive to create a challenging project, my mom's sewing interest evaporated. A few years ago when I asked for a sewing machine for my birthday my mom had to scan the instructions to thread the machine. I remember not wanting her help in any of these matters- as a character trait I like to experience all new things on my own terms- but I wonder if I just didn't want my mom's attitude to effect mine.
I have thankfully included her in my sewing interest and although she has never been one to care passionately about my hobby affairs, she will be there to help line up pattern pieces when I need the help.
I have a little mommy and me project planned for the winter break: sewing a pattern together. I hope she is up for it.

Sewing Research

2008-11-20T06:30:00.009-05:00

What I've been doing lately is reading and researching pattern making, watching instructional videos and just generally getting a feel for sewing patterns. I made a life size copy of a sloper and am planning to devise a personalized sloper for pattern construction. I figure that because I do not have a sewing background, both in technical skill, fabric knowledge, and pattern construction, I can just start at the beginning. Because of this ignorance I could conceivably learn pattern design after constructing one commercial pattern because I have the tools available and the will to learn.
So far, my progression is working. The library has been a wonderful source for instructional books and videos and also great for the exposure I get to possibilities of creation with fabric. I have taken this instruction and inspiration to practice while continuing to find more sources. There is a life size paper sloper that I copied from a quarter size waiting to be transferred to fabric and fit to my body. Never before did I think I could make clothing until I got a textbook for the pattern maker. One day I spent hours just creating little quarter size bust slopers with different darts just to get the feel of the construction.
The gloves I have started I am still planning to finish but, through my research, I found the pattern I made had a few flaws, mainly in the thumb shape and corresponding whole. The hand sewing is a wonderful introduction to the world of sewing because it slows down and simplifies the process of securing two fabrics together. With a little variation in the back stitch stitch-length or a diagonal basting stitch the fabric reacts differently. I have just started to notice these differences, but I plan to explore them and casually rely the effects here.

Progress on the Gloves

2008-10-24T20:49:00.004-04:00

I have been progressing on the pattern for the gloves; the original design was all wrong. Now I've been reading about hand sewing techniques from all these couture books and I'm now planning to sew the gloves all by hand. I am cutting the fabric tomorrow, after carefully ironing and trace-stitching the pattern. Then I move onto a overcast stitch around the edges so they don't fray. I'm using the same fabric from before but I'm adding a knit cashmere lining (an old sweater). I'm excited about these gloves because they will be made to fit my hand perfectly. I have made two practice gloves and measured my hand and material so hopefully all will go well.

Thinking Through Craft by Glenn Adamson. Berg: NY, 2007

2008-10-12T21:00:00.001-04:00

Glenn Adamson has written a book detailing the place of craft in the modern world. There is a definite emphasis on the modern world here, particularly 21st century art world. Avant garde art today, in principle, has an autonomy from any social, political, and economic influence, and this allows the artistic work to represent a critique of the world(1). In other words, artists have total freedom to create works in reaction to the world around them. Adamson feels this weighty standard is necessary for the art market, but doesn't give justice to the ornately decorated frames or masterfully woven upholstery, in other words, the crafty items. What Adamson proposes is to make a new definition for craft, one that totally shifts the word from representing the objects-pottery, quilts, jewelry- to representing the process. In this idea, craft is used in the production of some artworks. For example, an artist might need to master a brush, medium and paint to make a statement about the world through realistic representation on canvas. What Adamson truly aims to produce is a separate criteria for which craft can be viewed, one that would not be of lesser importance to art. This new place will lead to a craft world where it "is favorable for all the thinking to operate in process"(p. 167)

This a multi-layered book sifts through the five core principles of craft through the lens of theory, history and criticism. Adamson defines the core principles as: supplemental (craft produced in total reliance on the experience of creating); material (craft made for physical interaction); skill (cited as the most important in Adamson's argument, because "it is the most complete embodiment of craft as an active, relational concept rather than a fixed category"[p. 4]); pastoral (the symbolic ideal of craft); amateur (the varying levels of proficiency). The carefully selected illustrations, sixteen colored plates and over thirty black and white images, help the reader to understand the arguments Adamson makes. A Piet Mondrien painting is compared to a weaving by Anni Albers to make a point about the similarities in appearance, but differences in the artists' intent and the public's reaction.

This book entices the reader to go in for a second read. The many facets that spring off from Adamson's main theme are so interesting and new (to this reader, at least) that to fully understand the complexities of his arguments, they almost need to be studied. Many opportunities are available for further exploration, mainly because so much relevant information is packed so succinctly within an interesting argument. Have fun with this book; I know I did.

Notes
1. Adamson sites Marxist social philosopher Theodor Adorno from his analysis of art, Aesthetic Theory and molds Adorno's ideas to his own.

Gloves: Pattern and Fabric Cut-out

2008-10-12T12:06:00.005-04:00

I drew a pattern from the glove and cut out the pieces leaving about 1/4 inch seam allowance. I will be sewing the gloves by hand so that might be more than enough allowance, but I wanted to be sure. If need be, I could always adjust the fitness with darts on the front, like on the original glove. Adding the darts are not in the plan at this point tho because the fabric I have is a bit less stretchy as the knit from the original glove.

My first official project: Gloves

2008-10-11T12:22:00.006-04:00

I am interested in getting into the spirit of this craft blog and actually create something to post. I took pictures of some of the things I've created this past year, but sadly I'm a bit of a novice. In the spirit of a fresh start I've decided to forgo the past projects and begin new.
Last year I bought knit gloves and this year I have only one of them. I decided to look through my fabric stash to see if any of the fabric would work if I tried to duplicate the design. I've found some and I'm trying it.
Here is the fabric I intend to use and a picture of the front and back of the glove.

Craft Book

2008-10-07T12:54:00.000-04:00

I just read this article in the September issue of Art in America. I love to read the book reviews and this topic really caught my attention: the status of craft. The author Garth Clark, a ceramic gallery owner in NYC, wrote that there are two new books on craft theory and that they are the first of their kind since before WWII.
The one is not worth mentioning because Mr. Clark had such criticism of the author's obsession with the line between art and craft, but the Thinking through Craft by Glenn Adamson (Oxford and New York, Berg, 2007; 209 pages) seems interesting.
Mr. Adamson is a recent Yale Phd grad in art history with concentration on modern craft. Adamson uses three reference points when dealing with craft: work, practice and site and contextualizes the role of craft.
This seems like a interesting book and I look forward to getting it from the library.

Welcome

2008-10-05T12:10:00.001-04:00

This is the start of my blog coverfourcorners.